Small Towns of Croatia's Dalmation Coast

This is a long overdue post and in the months since I visited Croatia the world has changed in previously unimaginable ways. But now that most of us can only travel virtually from our armchairs these days, I thought I'd go ahead and post something more about Croatia, a popular bucket list destination.

As I mentioned several months ago, last October my family and I took a weeklong cruise from Split to Dubrovnik and back, stopping to explore several of Croatia's scenic small towns along the way. Our first morning found us in Bol on the island of Brač.

We spent a delightful few hours strolling from the harbor in the main part of town to the Dominican monastery and back, with views of the Adriatic the entire way. This little chapel was particularly charming.

Our next stop was Hvar, on the island of Hvar. Here it is seen from the water, with the early 16th century Spanish fortress on the skyline.
 

As in all the towns we visited, nearly everything is made from local stone: churches, residences and shops, and even pavers in the town squares and the smallest alleyways.

At every stop we walked and walked, and climbed flight after flight of steps.

In Hvar you can climb all the way to the fortress (though we took a cab) to take in the views.

Hvar town, spread out below us, glowed in the late afternoon.

Another day found us on Korčula, a gem of a town with a long and complicated history, having been under the control of Greeks, Venetians, and French, among others. If our guide is to be believed, the central old town is largely unoccupied now, and the buildings have been turned into restaurants, shops and hotels catering to visitors. Still, it is worth wandering around the narrow streets and alleys. 

It is also worth climbing the bell tower of St. Mark's Cathedral to see the town's red-roofed buildings spread out below.

Dubrovnik, the best known town on the coast, has largely recovered from damage in 1991-1992 during the Croation War of Independence and now hosts thousands of cruise ship passengers every day. Sadly, I found it overcrowded and missing the lazy charm that I found so appealing on my first visit in 1989. Still, it is a beautiful city. The afternoon sun bathes the old stone in yellow light, making it look like it has been carved from butter.

Grand architectural details abound.

At every turn you can find picturesque scenes, from the harbor

to the vibrant streets and closely packed buildings.

Amid all the hustle and bustle we managed to find a place of quiet refuge, the Franciscan Pharmacy in the old monastery. It is apparently the third oldest operating pharmacy in Europe. You can tour the museum, sit in the lovely central garden, and even purchase skin care and other products from the pharmacy.

 

Our next stop, Mljet National Park, was, thankfully, far quieter. I spent the first part of the afternoon running the 10 kilometer trail around Great Lake, a salt lake with clear blue water and a couple of tiny villages along the way.

Then, I hopped on the little boat for a ride to the isle of St. Mary's to visit the Benedictine monastery.

Our last island visit was to the village of Pučišća, on the island of Brač. Next to Korčula, I thought it the prettiest of our stops, with modestly sized white stone buildings, capped with red tile roofs, stepping up the hillsides. In this village even benches and light poles are made from local stone. 

Which is no wonder, since it is adjacent to a large quarry and home to Croatia's only stonemason school. We were given a nice tour of the school by one of its current students.

Our final stop before returning to Split was the town of Omiš, about ten miles east of Split.  Massive, steep cliffs loom up over the town.

We spent the morning motoring up the Centia River gorge in a small boat, passing fishermen and their little huts.

The area offers many opportunities for recreation, including zip lining across the gorge.

Our destination was Radman's Mills, a several-hundred year old mill site now operated as a restaurant and picnic area. We had a nice snack of local cheese, meat, and fresh bread before heading back to Omiš.

Back in Omiš I spent a little more time appreciating the details: a colorful waterfront, 

an elegant public water faucet,

and aging, but still sturdy and elegant buildings.

And here is a photo of the clear Adriatic water, which beckoned some of us to swim every day.

I will end with this quilt top as I did some of the hand piecing while on this trip. It was inspired by Denyse Schmidt's Free-Wheeling Single Girl Sew-Along. Mine is rather wonky because I didn't manage to get the official templates and used hand-drawn paper ones instead. I have to admit that I got a little bored working on it, probably because the colors are fairly muted, but I think it turned out pretty well. More importantly, I think it will always make me think of Croatia. Besides working on it there, the blues remind me of the Adriatic and the yellows remind me of Croatia's stone buildings glowing in afternoon sunlight. 

More Covid Quilting - Kaffe Fassett's Facet Quilt

I finished up another quilt top a couple weeks ago. In a first for me, not counting quilt alongs, I followed a published pattern, the Facet quilt by Kaffe Fassett and Liza Prior Lucy from their book "Simple Shapes, Spectacular Quilts."

My original plan was to use up a good part of several jelly rolls that have been sitting in my stash for too long. Since this pattern called for strips it seemed like a good idea. But when I looked at those fabrics together, I realized they didn't have enough visual interest: the patterns were too small and were too monochromatic to work properly. I found myself pulling more and more other fabrics from my stash, including several Kaffe Fassett prints and a bunch of fun Tula Pink fabrics.

As I was making it I wasn't sure I if I'd be pleased with the result, but I'm glad I soldiered on to finish it. The colors are fresh and the design is crisp.

I did manage to use up some of the jelly roll fabrics, most of which ended up in the border.

I should note a couple of quibbles I have with the pattern as written. First, it instructs you to cut all the strips to at least 11 inches long. Once the strips are sewn into rectangles they get trimmed down to 8 5/8 inches, leaving a nearly 2 1/2 inch wide scrap, which seems excessively wasteful. Fortunately, I happen to have a scrap quilt in progress that accommodated most of those pieces. 

Second, the instructions tell you to use a quarter inch seam throughout. That is incorrect because of the tall triangles. The correct way is to sew the triangles into rectangles with a quarter inch seam, then sew the rectangles into horizontal strips with quarter inch seams. Finally, sew the horizontal strips together with a nearly half inch seam. You can measure the edges where the points come together to get the exact seam allowance.

Since we aren't traveling, I'll leave you with a couple images of our resident fox, out early one morning in search of a meal for her three kits. 

She is remarkably nimble - we watched her climb straight up this very steep cliff.