Great Hiking Destinations in Grand Teton National Park

In my last post I wrote about the challenges and joys of climbing Mt. Moran in Grand Teton National Park. Fortunately, climbing is not the only way to enjoy this magnificent park. Reasonably fit hikers can reach many interesting and scenic destinations in a day or less. In this post I'll detail three options -- Delta Lake, Lake of the Crags, and Static Peak -- that I have visited in the last month.  

Delta Lake (8 miles roundtrip, 2,370 feet elevation gain)

Start this hike at Lupine Meadows trailhead and follow the trail towards Amphitheater Lake. You may well see wildlife along the way, like this elk.

At the first switchback after the junction to Garnet Canyon, turn off onto an unofficial and unmaintained but clear path on the right. You are now in Glacier Gulch and will need to be more careful since the route has some steep and meandering sections and crosses a boulder field.

Delta Lake is a dramatic milky aqua, due to rock flour from the Teton Glacier above it. In clear weather you can see the Grand Teton looming in the distance but we were there in a surprise late August storm and instead found the lake socked in with snow and fog. It was magical.

This used to be one of the less visited high lakes, but social media has changed that. It is quite a popular spot now and I would only ask that visitors respect others' enjoyment of this beautiful lake by not playing loud music and trying to stay on the existing path instead of trampling down new ones. 

Lake of the Crags (5 miles roundtrip, 2,690 feet elevation gain)

Begin this hike at the west shore dock of Jenny Lake -- you can take the boat across (for a fee) or hike around from the Jenny Lake parking area -- and head north, going towards String Lake. In about a quarter mile, look for a well worn, but unmarked, trail on the left. This unofficial and unmaintained trail up Hanging Canyon climbs more steeply than official park trails so you may want to have hiking poles, especially for the descent. As you're walking look up for close-up views of the Cathedral Group,

and down for a great view of Jenny Lake.

Towards the top you will need to navigate across a small boulder field adjacent to Arrowhead Pool, then scramble up a short, rocky defile which will bring you out near Ramshead Lake. 

Continue along the path on the north side of Ramshead and then climb up the boulder field to reach Lake of the Crags. 

Surrounded by steep cliffs on three sides, it is a stunning place. On warm days you may enjoy a refreshing swim, or just lounge at the edge of the lake and take in the spectacular views.

Static Peak (16 miles roundtrip, 4,500+ feet elevation gain)

Start this hike at Whitegrass trailhead, accessed from the Moose-Wilson Road. Be prepared for rough going -- enormous potholes and large rocks abound -- on the last mile of road to the trailhead. Follow the Death Canyon trail for 3.7 miles, hiking up and over a moraine and passing the Phelps Lake overlook, to a patrol cabin. 

Turn right onto Alaska Basin Trail towards Static Peak Divide. 

This lovely trail begins in aspen, winds across evergreen forest and narrow cliffside paths, and finally brings you to the open and rocky Static Peak Divide at 10,790 feet of elevation. 

Now look for an obvious path on your right, 

and follow this along the right side of the ridge line all the way to the top of Static Peak. It is wise to keep an eye on the weather in this area as the name Static Peak derives from the peak's propensity to attract lightning.

From the summit you will have sweeping views of the trail you just traversed,

of Idaho to the west, and of the Grand Teton range, including the Grand itself in the distance. 

Looming up just to the north is the impressive edifice of Buck Mountain.

Like all the Grand Teton canyons, Death Canyon hosts abundant wildlife, such as this moose family we encountered on our return trip, so it is an interesting and worthy outing even if you don't reach the summit.  Also remember that near the end of the hike you will have to climb back up the moraine to the Phelps Lake overlook before the final stretch to your car. It can be disheartening to unexpectedly face that climb at the end of a long day.

If all of these hikes are beyond your comfort zone or simply require more time than you have, I'll write another post soon with suggestions for easier and shorter hikes in the area. 

Further Adventures in the Tetons, Part I

One advantage of being married to a field geologist is getting to tag along on field trips to beautiful places. This summer it was four days in the back country of the Tetons.

We started at first light from the Teton Canyon trailhead on the west side of the range, warming up our legs on the gently graded trail as sunlight began to creep down the surrounding slopes.

At the first junction we turned right towards the Devil's Stair and immediately began to gain elevation.

Before long we were in the sun,

and had reached the top of the Devil's Stair. The stair part of the name refers to the natural stairs formed by fractures in the limestone; perhaps the devil part refers to the dark color, or maybe to the devilishly steep gradient. 

Once above the Devil's Stair, we were again on gentle slopes and could really take in the impressive cliffs and colorful wildflowers.

At the next junction, we turned left onto the Teton Crest Trail towards the Sheep Steps and then down to Basin Lakes, where we set up camp for a two-night stay. The Basin Lakes are incredibly scenic, especially in the late evening as the setting sun intensifies all the colors. Here you can see Buck Mountain.

The following morning, as the students went to explore one outcrop of the Flathead Sandstone, Steve and I went in the opposite direction to check out a different outcrop of the same formation. Along the way we spotted the unconformity between granitic basement rock and overlying sedimentary rocks (unconformities are always exciting for geologists!),

contemplated the origin of "the Wedge" on the opposite side of the canyon, 

and delighted in the abundant wildflowers.

Our destination was the little peak in the top right of this photo. With no currently maintained trail, we had a bit of an adventure reaching the top. First we trudged up this snow slope,

and discovered this lovely little moraine from what was once a glacier.

Farther up the slope we arrived on a portion of the abandoned Skyline Trail. We weren't surprised to find the trail - we had read about it and examined images on Google Earth - but we were surprised to find some sections in excellent condition. Of course, other sections were completely covered by rockfall, one of the reasons it was abandoned in 1951. In fact, we watched as an enormous boulder came tumbling down right on top of the trail, thankfully a long way from where we were.

The trail led us right up to the saddle at the base of the outcrop.

From there it was a short scramble to the top,

and panoramic views. Looking to the northwest you see the Wall.

Our map didn't have a name for this little peak, so we dubbed it "Eagle's Rest" for the eagle leg and talon we found at the top.

We retraced the Skyline Trail back down, this time following it until it joined up with Alaska Basin Shelf Trail. I have to concur with the park rangers who advised against using the Skyline Trail. One of the sections that was completely covered with rockfall started a very disconcerting downward slide when we walked across it. Steve went first and was swept off his feet. I followed gingerly, but quickly, and managed to stay on my feet.

The rest of the day was pure enjoyment: dramatic skies,

big views,

and gentle trails.

We made it back to camp in time for a dip in one of the lakes.

and a few rows of knitting before dinner.

It's hard to imagine a better break from the day to day world. I  love the quiet open space, big bright sky, sparkling alpine lakes and flower-filled meadows. I love the well-earned fatigue and hearty appetite at the end of each day of hiking. I love taking off my boots at the end of the day...and putting them back on in the morning.

I'll be back soon with details from the second half of this trip, and an update of the sweater I worked on along the way. It's almost finished!